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Know Your Stone Settings
Whenever you shop for gemstone jewelry - whether it's a diamond ring, pearl earrings, a tennis bracelet or a solitaire pendant - choosing the right setting should be one of the biggest factors behind your buying decision. Each setting creates a different "look" and has its own distinct advantages.
To help guide you through the maze of stone settings available in today's market, here's a brief glossary of some of the more common ones you're likely to encounter:
- Ballerina - A center stone is surrounded by
baguettes (small rectangular stones) set side by side in a
pattern suggesting a ballerina's tutu. Most commonly used
in rings.
- Bar - Commonly used in wedding and anniversary
bands, as well as necklaces and bracelets. A line of stones
are set together, separated by a thin bar between each
adjoining stone that holds them in place.
- Bezel - A setting where the top of the mounting
has been pressed over the edge of a stone, completely
surrounding it with a continuous metal rim. Can take on any
shape to accommodate the shape of the stone. Used in many
jewelry categories, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets
and rings.
- Channel - A series of small stones are tightly
nestled next to one another in a groove, or channel. Most
commonly used for wedding and anniversary bands, as well
as some bracelets. Provides a smooth, even band of light (or
color, depending on the gems used) and excellent stone protection.
- Cluster - Several smaller stones are set close
together - sometimes even surrounding a larger center stone -
to create the illusion of one big stone. Most commonly used in
fashion items such as rings, earrings and pendants.
- Flush - A setting where the stone is sunk into a
mounting until it is nearly level with the surface. Provides
additional protection for larger stones. Most commonly used for
rings.
- Gypsy - Often used in men's rings. A style where the
band is one continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. The
top is shaped like a dome, with no prongs and the stone set in
the middle. Provides a smooth, clean look.
- Illusion - A narrow ring of metal surrounds the
girdle (outer edge) of a stone, softening its outline and making
the stone appear larger. Most commonly used in rings.
- Invisible - A technique of setting stones close
together, often in rows, with the metal that holds them in
place hidden underneath. Gives heightened brilliance and a "floating"
appearance. A style commonly used for tennis bracelets.
- Pavé - Many tiny stones are set as closely together
as possible, to provide a uniform, glittering surface. A popular
fashion setting used in numerous kinds of jewelry, including rings,
earrings, bracelets, necklaces and pins.
- Prong - The most popular setting for engagement rings,
particularly larger solitaires. Also commonly used in earrings,
pendants and other jewelry categories. Usually consists of four,
five or six prongs, or claws, evenly spaced around a stone and
securely cradling it in the mounting. Raises a stone high above the
shank, placing the emphasis on the stone and making it appear larger.
Also allows the maximum amount of light to enter from all angles,
intensifying a stone's brilliance.
- Tension - A stone is held in place by pressure applied
on both sides by the ring itself, creating the illusion that the
stone is floating in space. Creates a modern techno-fashion look
for rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces.
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